For those of you who brew 5 gallon batches and split into 2 fermenters, how do you do the yeast? Do you just try and get half of the yeast in each fermenter? Buy 2 yeasts? It's a dry yeast and I plan to rehydrate. I could always divide the rehydrated yeast by weight and pitch each.

In those cases, I often end up using two different yeasts, just because I can. Usually, that's the reason I'm splitting, or I'd just use a larger fermentor.

assuming it is a 11.5g pack (fermentis, etc), just rehydrate, stir the slurry so it is an even mixture, then dump half in each. if it is a "regular" gravity ale, then that pack was made to do a full 5 gallons, so the split would work out perfectly!

It's a brown ale. I was planning to use Windsor on it but I could always do half Windsor and half US-05. I would mix before bottling but would bottle some singles of each as well more than likely.

Trying two different yeast would be nice for experimenting, but if using the same yeast, just split the packet by weight and rehydrate seperately. I did this yesturday.

What do you mean split a 5 gallon batch? Do you split the 5 and put them in your MrB kits?
Sorry if I am off topic; I was just curious.

most kits from online suppliers are designed for 5 gallon batches. A few guys here buy those kits and brew them as is, splitting the wort into 2 LBKs, 2.5 gallons each.

How big is the Mr. B keg? I thought they were only 2 gallons each...what do you do with the last bit of wort?
Is there a cost benefit to doing something like that? I have 2 kegs myself...never even thought about doing that.

You can fill to the top of the word "Quart" and get about 2.5 gallons in there. The fill line is 2.13 gallons. There may be a slight cost benefit, mainly it is nice to be able to use tried and true recipes and have everything done for you.

Agree with Cardinalsfan-- I always fill to the "quart"/"liter" mark.

On my lighter colored keg (MB Home Brewery), the 4 and 6 marks are at different levels for quart and liter, but the 8.5 marks are at the same level, and same thing on the my darker brown MB keg (MB Micro Brewer).

Then the words above the marks, quart and liter, are at the same level.

I tap the yeast packet with a knife until all the little yeasties are evenly spread out.

Then I fold it down the middle.

Then half the yeast is on each side.

Then I cut it with the knife and sprinkle the half into one MB 2.5 gal keg and the other half into another MB other keg.

the one batch I split I just eyeballed the amount of yeast i poured in (it was WLP028 Whitelabs Edinburgh Scottish Ale yeast) each LBK tasted a bit different but there were too many possible variables to call it a yeast difference. I emptied both into a bottling bucket mixing both batches so I didnt have bottles that tasted different

After thinking about it, i'm going to do a different yeast in each LBK and mix at bottling. I think it will give me the flavor profile I am looking for. Windsor will leave the gravity a bit high and give some nice esters while us-05 should get the gravity down and let the malt and hops shine. Mix them up and it's the best of both worlds. I will prolly bottle one or two of the single yeasts to see what the differences are. Brewing this up tonight!!

interesting experiment. I like your style keep us abreast (huh-huh...huh-huh. I said...) of the progress!

will do!! let's hope the wife likes it as this one is for her. it's also my first 5 gallon batch. gotta keep those fermenters full!!

ain't that the truth!

I am seriously intrigued by trying this 5 gallon split. Any reccomendations on a recipe to use? I would like to try to brew a batch before the end of the month, and let it ferment for the 4 weeks that I will be out of town through march.

I like the options that AHS (austin homebrew) has. TONS of recipes for commercial beers and lots of their own stuff. It's where I got this brown ale from. check em out

Northern Brewer has lots of choices as well.

I did one last night. I posted it in recipes (extract).

Do you have a big brew pot?

Reason I ask is that you will need a bigger pot for the 5 gal batch-- instructions that came with my kit had directions for a "small pot" of 5 to 7 gallons (!) and a "large pot" of twice that--- I used my 20 quart pot and it was fine. A bit of a change after making a lot of 2.5 gallon batches in my 8 quart pot!

While a good size pot is better, it is possible to brew in an undersized pot. IMO it works better with LME. Add less than 2 lbs extract per gallon of water then add the rest post boil. The hops efficiency will be somewhat lower but the color and flavor should be good.

I have a turkey fryer downstairs in the basement...that work?

But you have to keep a close eye on that little pot or you will have a really big mess to clean up in the event of a boil over. I am in the process of upgrading from 8 qrt pot to 20 qrt pot for that reason...

I think the professor was describing a different approach.

Use an amount of water appropriate to the size of your pot. Add a small amount of LME/DME to the water for the hop utilization. Add the rest of the LME/DME at flameout.

If you use this approach, you can use a much smaller pot.

Yeah, when I first read about it is was described as "avoiding too thick of wort". I know any beers I made that way were lighter in color rather than a bit dark (for a lager or pale ale). Also a bit cleaner flavor.

I believe the hop utilisation actually has to do with the water volume, with full water volume being the best and anything less being not quite as good. I'm not real sure that is anything to worry about with either 2.5 or 5.0 gallon batches.

I use a 34 quart turkey fryer and it works well. I used to use my 30 quart but it is VERY hard to avoid a boil-over, it took alot of practice and patience. I also wouldn't use a fryer that has been used as a fryer (with oil).

A couple more things to think about using the turkey fryer.
You can boil a concentrated batch and top up with cold
bottled water MB style. With the turkey fryer you need at least
6 inches headspace maybe more to prevent boilovers. That leaves
you short around 4 - 4.5 gallons after it boils down.
Which is just about perfect for using those one dollar 5 gallon
icing buckets from the walmart bakery. Just wash them out good
and add a grommet and an airlock. Recipe will need adjusting
from a 5 gallon batch to 4 gallon.

Yeah, when I first read about it is was described as "avoiding too thick of wort". I know any beers I made that way were lighter in color rather than a bit dark (for a lager or pale ale). Also a bit cleaner flavor.

I believe the hop utilisation actually has to do with the water volume, with full water volume being the best and anything less being not quite as good. I'm not real sure that is anything to worry about with either 2.5 or 5.0 gallon batches. [/quote]

I think the water volume aids in utilization indirectly. If I remember correctly, the real key is to have the correct pH, which is largely driven by the amount of malt in the water. The reason the full volume water boil works is because then you have the malt dissolved in a larger amount of water. Often extract kits will have you add all the malt to the water at the beginning (probably to make it easier and less confusing), so unless the brewer has a large enough pot, the water volume will be lower, and the gravity will be too high, resulting in less efficient utilization.

I was looking at the coopers line on Austin Homebrew supply and I was noticing that this stuff normally makes about 6 gallons of beer. Assuming I have 2 LBKs that I now know are capable of making 5 gallon batches, will there be any issue with a bit of extra wort in my batches, or do I cut a bit off the top and kinda eyeball it? Just want to make sure before I order. Thinking about trying either their Canadian Blonde or a Pilsner.

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178_452_45_198

the stuff from austin is designed to make 5 gallon batches. if you really fill the LBKs, you can get that 5 gallons into two of them. I fill to the top of the word QUART and have no issues.

when you order, get some fermcap too. 4 drops in the wort after pitching the yeast will make sure you don't have blowouts.

I really must say, that this has been a very informative thread. I will keep you all posted on what batch I decide to do. I'm sure i wil be around with more questions, but in the mean time, thanks!!

Just did an Irish Red Ale, scaled from "Brewing Classic Styles" and purchased ingredients at BrewMasters Warehouse in Marietta. I used their Brewbuilder program to get the numbers right, but OG came in low. Boiled all wort in one pot, did the ice water bath then split into two kegs topping off with water Mr. Beer style to top of Quart.

I think on next batch, I'll take original recipe ingredients x .87 (the book assumes 5.5 gallons transferred to fermenter and I'll be transferring about 4.8 which is about 87 %).

I've made that one too! Really good.

I've never done an ice water bath-- just cold tap water in the sink.

Give us tasting notes!

I've made a few 5 gallon batches for two MB kegs (like last week) and never did any .87 reductions-- just make the 5 gal recipe and pour it into the 2 kegs ... that has worked fine so far

Just adjust the cooling water to fill to the Liter mark-- you'll add 1/.87 or 15% less. Or something.

Maybe I'm not following you-- I had this image of you throwing away .13 of the ingredients-- I'm sure that's not what you meant-- in any case, your wort could be 15% (1/.87) stronger than book-- more O.G. is better ....

OK I think I have it. You are saying that you are going to make the 5 gallon Brewing Classic Styles (or whatever) recipe and reduce the ingredients by 15%? To compensate for the presumptive smaller fermenting capacity of two MB kegs?

I say NO Way! Go for the original recipe specs and pour it into your clear brown Mr Beer kegs ... cool wort in cold tap water to less than 90F first-- add cold tap water or refrigerated water if needed to bring wort to 75F before pitching yeast-- and how do you reduce .25 oz of pale choc by 15% ?? Just askin'

I used the BrewBuilder calculator online which allows changes to volume etc. I think it will be good, but my OG was definitely low. Has anyone else had this issue?
I think it had me cutting the amount of extract too much to achieve target OG.

That is weird.

I think the recipes in that book are for 6 gallon post boil volumes and assumes you'll get 5.5 gallons of clear wort into the fermenter. To miss low at 5.5 means you're missing even lower than than you estimated a few posts back.

Do you have a scale? Weigh the ingredients of your next brew from them just to double check their amounts. I'd have to guess either an error on their part in building your brew or a water volume error on your end. I don't know what else it could be.

I do have a scale and weighed everything according to the Brewbuilder. I had it calculated at 4.8 gallons for the two kegs combined.

Brew calculator gave me:
1.054 OG
1.014 FG
16 IBU (shade less than style but used 1 oz hops instead of 1.1 oz)
14.6 SRM
5.24 ABV

6 lbs, 6 oz - Briess Pilsen LME
4 oz - Briess caramel 40
4 oz - Briess Roasted Barley
4 oz - crystal 120
1 oz - Kent Goldings @ 60 mins
1/4 teasp. Irish Moss @ 10 mins
1 pack - Nottingham yeast

My reading was 1.033 OG. Maybe I need to check the hydrometer?

Definitely a good idea to calibrate your hydrometer, yeah.

Not familiar with that particular software, but does it have an option to steep the grains rather then mash. With no base grains in the pot you are getting flavors but not extra sugars. That may account for the difference. Just a thought.