I've got sanitizing down, I'm like that character "Monk" when it comes to germs, a little OCD.

I read banjoman's post and visited my local brew supply. I picked up a 11.5gm pack of Safale US 05 Ale yeast, a pound of Briess Golden Light DME, a stick on thermometer, and some Star-San.

I have well water, filtered, softened and run through an RO as well. I took a gallon of RO water and boiled it and put it in a sanitized jug in the fridge.

Using the MB Pale Ale LME, should I use the whole pound of DME in place of the Booster?

From what I can determine, I'll need to pitch 5gm of yeast. I plan to rehydrate it in 70deg water (that has been boiled & cooled) then pitch it in the cooled wort (wort added to the gallon of cold water in the LBK). Hopefully I'll be able to get it to around 67 or so with the chilled water, might have to do some physics calculations there). If not I can further chill the LBK in an ice bath.

The LBK will go into a small cooler and I'll rotate ice packs 2x daily to regulate the temp.

Plan is to let it ferment for 2 weeks. Then bottle it. Recommended elsewhere was to use the booster in place of sugar when bottling. 1/3 cup added to 1 cup of boiling water, cooled then mixed into the beer (in another container) then bottle.

Anything I'm missing? Any other tips? Thanks!

--C

I'd say yes.


Use the whole package.


Personally I use corn sugar, I'd suggest corn or cane sugar ahead of booster.

I recommend using the full packet of yeast. But others will say half a pack is enough.

Definitely would not use the booster for priming. Good ol table sugar is pretty reliable for that. Save the booster for a batch down the road where you want to boost alcohol content during the boil.

Are you using any Hme? your gonna need some hops in there, not just the lme and dme.

splitting the yeast is fine as long as you plan to use the other half soon. I have done this plenty.

Sounds like like you are ready to roll! Flame on!
I have used half a pack of yeast on two batches and it seemed to work out fine but I'm still a neebie so a full pack might be the wiser choice...

Sounds like you def have it ready to go.....

what kind of RO system do you have? I want one of those...lol

The West Coast Pale Ale HME(which I assume you have) and Light DME w/Safale US-05 will be fine. You could get away with using 1/2 pack but I'd suggest the whole thing and no need to rehydrate as that particular yeast is fast acting and the only brand of dry yeast(Fermentis) that I use when I'm not using liquid yeast. Just follow the 2-2-2 rule for new brewers and all will go fine. Welcome to homebrewing!

Yep the supplied WPA.
I'll go with the whole yeast pack then, didn't know if too much yeast was a problem. I'm thinking maybe going with a sterile sugar solution to charge with. I won't use the booster for that. I have some big syringes that I can use to dispense the sugar solution once I do the calculations.

I forget who makes it, it's an under counter RO that makes 1.25 gal, has charcoal pre & post filtration as well. Mainly for getting any residual salt from the water softener for cooking & drinking water. My well water really isn't a big deal other than the hardness from the lime. No odors or off tastes, they bottle the spring water here for resale.

Too much yeast can be a problem, but it takes A LOT of yeast to reach the point where it is a problem. I can't remember the exact amount, but it's a lot more than 11 grams of dry yeast for a Mr Beer sized batch. for home brewers, underpitching is far more likely to be a cause for concern than overpitching.